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07.23.08 - Worcester Diners

By Paul Giorgio

Central Massachusetts appears to be the center of the diner universe. Maybe that’s because one of the 10 companies in the United States that built diners was located in Worcester. The Worcester Lunch Car Company operated from 1906 to 1961, first on Franklin Street and later moved over to Southbridge Street. During this time, they built 651 diners. The company was sold in 1961 and became the Worcester Deluxe Diner Manufacturing Company.

The Lunch Cars were unique in that they all had barrel roofs and distinctive porcelain enamel exteriors. Almost all used a Gothic-type face for their name on the outside.

Let’s take a look at some diners in Worcester today. They are all unique in their own way. Some are open for breakfast and lunch, others serve at night and only a few remain open 24 hours a day.

If you are a club goer, a night owl or a worker on the late-night shift, there are only a couple of places to choose from. One is the Kenmore Diner on the corner of Grafton & Franklin Street in Worcester. This diner, which is literally under I-290, was rebuilt by owner Jimmy Yansides after being destroyed in the Worcester Cold Storage fire. The menu is packed with classic diner favorites. Breakfast choices are their specialty. They are open all night on Fridays and Saturdays and serve lunch on Fridays.

boulevard The Boulevard Diner on Shrewsbury Street serves round the clock. Interested in meat loaf, a plate of pasta or eggs? You got it! The diner has been run by the George family for two generations. Jimmy George took over ownership from his father Ringo. The Boulevard, built in 1936 and on the National Register of Historic Places, is perhaps the finest example of a Worcester Lunch Car Company Diner.

Directly across the street from The Boulevard is the Parkway Diner. Originally operating at night, The Parkway now serves breakfast and lunch. And like The Boulevard, you can get diner food, breakfast specialties or Italian dishes. Be sure to try the lasagna. This diner is now in the hands of the second generation of the Evangelista family.

The Canal District sports a few diners, like Corner Lunch on Lamartine Street, Green Island Diner on Millbury Street and the quintessential diner Miss Worcester on Southbridge Street. By the way, Miss Worcester didn’t have to travel far since the Worcester Lunch Car Company was located right across the street.

If you want to travel further a field, Spencer has two diners on Main Street ~ Kenwood Diner and Charlie’s Diner. Charlie’s is an example of the mobility of the lunch car. The diner relocated to a number of different areas, the last of which was on Plantation Street. It was then put into storage before reemerging in Spencer a couple of years ago. Like most diners, it is under second or third generation ownership of the Turner family.

Edgemere Diner on Shrewsbury’s Route 20 has recently undergone a renovation and is now called “The Edge.” It now serves as a hotdog stand and has received rave reviews. Word has it that they make their own relish.

The newest diner in Worcester just opened last year ~ Blanchard’s 101 Diner at 322 Cambridge Street. This diner has an interesting history. It was most likely the last diner built by the Worcester Lunch Car Company. However, it was never finished until the Blanchard Catering Company bought it a few years ago and rebuilt it.

dinerThis brings us to our last diner which really isn’t a diner anymore ~ Ralph’s Chadwick Square Diner. Ralph’s, as it is known to everybody in Worcester, has become one of the local hotspots for great live music. The original diner was preserved and a two-story building was built around it. The menu is very limited with burgers, chili and other dishes.

Many diners in Central Massachusetts have disappeared or have relocated to other parts of the country. The best way to make sure we don’t lose anymore is to stop in for a meal at any of these neighborhood places. Everyone will know your name by the time you leave.

 

07.01.08 - Worcester’s BYOB Restaurants

By Paul Giorgio

BYOBWith the sputtering economy and summer in full swing, it’s a good time to take a look at some of Worcester’s BYOB restaurants, otherwise known as Bring Your Own Bottle. In short, these are places that don’t have a liquor license but do allow you to bring in your own liquor.

Some may charge a set up fee for supplying glasses and ice, or a corkage fee for wine. For the most part, most places bypass these stipulations. BYOB is a great way to cut down on the cost of a meal and still enjoy that special bottle of wine without paying an arm and a leg.

As always, I like to start on Shrewsbury Street in Worcester, the neighborhood that bills itself as “Worcester’s Restaurant Row.” There are a couple of places that encourage you to bring your own bottle. One of them is Paul Mac’s Diner, which may not seem like much of a diner today, but started out as one more than half a century ago.

This eclectic dining spot’s menu defies description, but leans heavily on Italian dishes. Paul McMahon and his son Chris man this funky eatery, which seems to grow each time I go by. What started out as a diner owned by “Paul Mac’s” father in the 30s, has turned into a mishmash of rooms and patios. The food is good, inexpensive, and there’s plenty of it.

The second spot is Zia Grill located at the upper end of Shrewsbury Street. Zia’s is owned by Paula McCarthy and serves Italian food, but includes several American entrees. Recently I had a 16-ounce rib eye served with two potato cakes and grilled asparagus with homemade Hollandaise sauce. Meals come with soup or salad. The price of my meal was $18. Prior to the main dish, I enjoyed a fig stuffed with goat cheese wrapped in Prosciutto that was roasted before serving. Most five star restaurants aren’t that creative.

There are other Worcester restaurants that offer BYOB. Over on Grove Street you have Lucky’s, which is located in the basement of the Northworks Building, next to the Courtyard by Marriott. They have a very reasonably priced menu which leans towards American dishes. All of the food is homemade. Lucky’s is open during the week for lunch, and serves dinner Friday and Saturday.

Café Espresso on Wall Street is another Italian restaurant that allows diners to truck in their libations. The extensive menu is all Italian and fair priced. Wall Street, for those unsure of Worcester, is off of Grafton Street on the city’s east side.

The Canal District’s entry into the BYOB category is Roma’s, which is new (opening the first week in July).

Roma’s is owned by Lanie Petrou and the chef is her husband Joe, who has owned several Worcester eateries. The menu here also leans heavily on Italian, with thin crust brick oven pizza a specialty. The restaurant has a full menu of specialties that Joe made famous at Primo’s Pasta on Shrewsbury Street and The Restaurant at Union Station.

This gives you a sampling of some of the places that offer BYOB. This is an economical way to enjoy Worcester dining without breaking the bank.

 

06.17.08 - Summertime Dining in Central Massachusetts

One of the great things about Worcester restaurants in the summertime is the outdoor dining experience. What better way to spend a night than to sit under the stars, sipping your favorite libation and eating great food.

Flying RhinoThere are plenty of places in Central Massachusetts that give you the opportunity to eat under the moonlight. Take Shrewsbury Street in Worcester for example. There are at least half a dozen places with outdoor dining. Flying Rhino has several tables outdoors and they are in the process of opening a patio. Further down the street, Piccolo’s has a few tables outside as does Brew City and Tribeca. If dessert is your thing, pop over to Café Dolce, which now has an expanded outdoor area. It’s a great place to enjoy your cannoli or gelato. Of course, you’ll want to watch those calories, if you have beach plans this summer.

But there are plenty of other places around the Worcester dining scene to enjoy the fresh air. Block 5 in the Canal District has a great outdoor patio on Green Street. If food’s not your thing, but a drink is, the Blackstone Tap on Water Street has an enclosed drinking area, where you can sit and enjoy the nighttime sky.

Unfortunately, outside of the Canal District and Shrewsbury Street restaurants, few neighborhoods have embraced the outdoor dining vibe. Just over Lake Quinsigamond Bridge is Vinny T’s which may have the premier dining location ~ a large deck set right on the lake. You can even drive your boat up to the dock. Further a field, but still waterside is Giuseppe’s in Northborough and Allora in Marlboro. Both offer great patios overlooking the lake.

North County is not without its outdoor dining venues. Lidio’s on Route 12 and the Monument Grille in downtown Leominster are particular favorites. Lidio’s offers Italian food, while the Monument Grill can best be described as modern American.

If your idea of a great night out is a warm summer breeze, a cool drink and great food, you’re in luck if you live in Central Massachusetts.

 

03.03.08 - Meet Mark Oldman

Wine Aficionado and Award-winning Author
By Paul Giorgio

mark oldmanMark Oldman is the featured speaker at the New York Wine Expo to be held March 7th and 8th at the Jacob K. Javits Convention Center. Oldman was also the keynote speaker at this year’s Boston Wine Expo, held at the World Trade Center in February. Oldman is a prolific author. His recent book “Oldman’s Guide to Outsmarting Wine” won the prestigious Georges Duboeuf award for the 2004 Best Wine Book

Oldman is a graduate of Stanford University and the Stanford Law School., so the natural first question I asked was, “How do you go from law school student to wine expert?” Oldman’s answer was that he started a wine club at school. “The club was in Napa valley and at first I thought I had to pay the vintners to speak, but they were chomping at the bit to educate the next generation of wine drinkers. We had everyone from Robert Mondavi on down,” recalls Oldman. He started teaching wine seminars in 1990.

Oldman is President of Vault, Inc. the leading media company for career information, and does the wine seminars as an adjunct to his regular job. “I teach wine whenever I can and it’s everything from 4 week courses to speaking at wine festivals ~ luckily these are at night or on weekends.”

We put a few questions to Oldman in order to increase our wine knowledge.

TW: What’s the new hot trend in wine?

Oldman: I guess the hottest trend is people moving beyond the usual varietals. Wine consumption has increased 25% in the last 6 years. We call this the “Sideways effect.” A generation ago it was the 6 big grape varietals, now people are more adventuresome. They are willing to try a Malbec from Argentina or a Prosecco from Italy. People are more knowledgeable and daring.”

TW: What about value?
Oldman: There is an expansion of tastes in wine world. People are tired of paying what I call a “trend premium.” There is real value in lesser known wines. The harder a wine name is to pronounce the better the value. I think that is because people don’t want to be embarrassed by mispronouncing a wine, so they will stick with something they know. They don’t order Gewurztraminer, for example.

TW: So then where can we find value?
Oldman: Torrontes from Argentina, which is a white like Sauvignon Blanc and there is no comfort premium with that. Also Rose is on a comeback because it is so versatile with food. Unfortunately, the curse of white zinfandel destroyed rose. Rose has a stigma in the U.S. that it is not a substantial wine. I like Zinfandel; it offers more value for the money. It’s a spicy and peppery wine. Ravenswood & Rancho de Bacho are 2 good ones.

TW: Any wines from a particular country attracting more attention?
Oldman: I would have to say Spanish wines. People are discovering the delights of Spanish wines that are priced at the $10-$15 level, and the tapas trend fueled this. I find that food and wine are best when paired regionally ~ such as Chianti with pasta, beef burgonneone with Burgundy.

TW: What will you be talking about at the New York Wine Expo?

Oldman: I tend to be hands on, I’m practical. I impart little nuggets of knowledge. I go over my favorite wine types. I like New Zealand sauvignon Blanc or Prosecco, which is Italian Champagne ~ it’s an incredible value, I call it Prozaco, and it’s so uplifting. I also enjoy a high quality Zinfandel and a Pinot Noir.

TW: What about wine descriptors?

Oldman: Descriptors are very personal, what is hay or barnyard to one is something to another. For example,e I pass around a can of green giant asparagus and people realize that New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc has the same smell. To me pinot Noir has a smell of raspberry jam and Gwertziminer reminds me of licci nuts.

TW: What about wine labels? A friend of mine picks wine by the label.
Oldman: We are very packaging oriented in this country. I too am seduced by packaging. They make the labels to sell the wine in the marketplace. In a world of infinite wine choices we look to the label. A classic example of a label selling a wine short is Chianti. The labels tend to undersell some very good wines

TW: What are your favorite wines?

Oldman: Italy ~ at the high end an aged Barolo and at the lower end a Primativo from Puglia. France, well, It’s hard to choose a favorite but I would have to say a red burgundy, for a white it would be Sauvignon Blanc from Loire valley. American? A petit Syrah from the Paso Robles region of California. Australians, they have figured out how to create good wines at good prices ~ they are not hamstrung by laws and traditions like the French. Australian Rieslings are a good value and not very sweet. Australian Shiraz is the best wines under $15. Australians produce crowd pleasers.

TW: What was the best wine you’ve ever had?
Oldman: 2 months ago in San Francisco Restaurant which was BYOB, a friend brought a 1962 La Tache red Burgundy. If you could afford it you couldn’t find it. It had the aroma of licorice or Asian spices.

TW: You’re the wine guy for Rachael Ray’s magazine, what is that experience like?

Oldman: After my book came out they approached me about writing a wine column. It’s a good experience. I like writing about expensive wines but the challenge with her is to find good value under $20-$30.

TW: What do you say to younger people just finding wine?
Oldman: Drink more bubbly like an affordable prosseco, or a cava from Spain. Gruet from New Mexico is a great American bubbly that no one has heard of. Treat it like 7-up that gets you drunk. But my all time favorite French Champagne is Salon.

 

01.10.08 - Steve Champagne

By Paul Giorgio

steve champagneName: Steve Champagne
Age: 44

Education: Graduate of the Cambridge School of Culinary Arts; also has a BS degree in Mechanical Engineering from Central New England College.

Current Position: Executive Chef, Niche Hospitality Group, owners of Block 5 Bistro, Bocado, & Mezcal

Prior Restaurant Experience: Executive Chef Struck Café; staff, 111 Chop House and The Sole Proprietor

Other: Lives in Millbury with his wife and 2 children

What made you switch from engineering to cooking? I enjoyed cooking more than engineering. I made the switch during the recession in the 90s. I finished cooking school in 1994. I thought cooking would be fun & exciting.

What is your cooking philosophy? I like classic techniques with bold flavors and fresh ingredients.

Do you like your flavors bold? If you say you’re going to taste basil & garlic, you’d better taste it. You shouldn’t have to look to find the mushroom in a mushroom risotto. Read More…

 

01.10.08 - Sushi for Beginners

By Leeanne Griffin

“Eat raw fish? You’ve got to be kidding me.”

sushiIf you’ve never eaten sushi, chances are you’ve uttered this sentence at some point in your life. For the uninitiated, sushi can be daunting. But it can be a delightful alternative to pizza, burgers or even Chinese food. It’s low-fat, sophisticated and so beautifully crafted that it’s almost edible art.

So what if you absolutely cannot imagine eating raw fish? The most common misconception about sushi is that everything is raw. You’re probably picturing nigiri (raw fish slices over a small bed of rice) or sashimi (slices with no rice.) In fact, there are many sushi rolls (maki) that incorporate no raw fish ~ or any fish at all.

When you dine out at a sushi bar or restaurant, you’re often given a slip of paper with a list of sashimi, nigiri and maki options. This is where you choose your items. Sushi purists often start their meal with sashimi, but no one expects rookies to do that immediately ~ you have to ski the bunny slope before you hit the black diamond trail, right? Read More…